2026年9月3日星期四

LUT & Caucasus 2025 – Georgia Mestia to Ushguli Trek (格魯吉亞梅斯蒂亞-烏樹故里健行之旅) Part 8 終點在望懷著探索世界熱誠向歐洲海拔最高村Ushguli (烏樹故里)進發

 


LUT & Caucasus 2025 – Georgia Mestia to Ushguli Trek (格魯吉亞梅斯蒂亞-烏樹故里健行之旅) Part 8 終點在望懷著探索世界熱誠向歐洲海拔最高村Ushguli (烏樹故里)進發


(註: 請先留意早前upload<LUT & Caucasus 2025 – Georgia Mestia to Ushguli Trek (格魯吉亞梅斯蒂亞-烏樹故里健行之旅) Part 7 一期一會迫力滿分Adishi Glacier (阿迪希冰川)  2,700m Chkhunderi Pass上的天與地闖過橫風冷雨的Narrow Escape > @ https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2026/07/lut-caucasus-2025-georgia-mestia-to.html )

 

剛從地球另一邊的Ecuador (厄瓜多爾)回家,帶著一點遺憾卻又滿載著經歷與回憶的<Ecuador OSO Trip 2026 - HOPE> 之旅已經結束 (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2026/08/ecuador-oso-2026-5backpackinghope.html ),當然有極多想與大家分享! 不過,既然<LUT & Caucasus Trip 2025 – Moving On> (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2025/07/lut-caucasus-2025-moving-on-ultra-trail.html ) 重頭戲的4 Georgia Mestia to Ushguli Trek (格魯吉亞梅斯蒂亞-烏樹故里健行之旅) (簡稱“Mestia to Ushguli Trek”)連載還未完成, 就必需有始有終吧! 何況,非常困擾的right knee injury之後 (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2026/06/euro-utmb-egypt-2023-x-bab-zuwayla.html ),對一期一會有更深刻感受 凡事並非必然,每趟旅程、每次登山之旅圓滿與否是場未知,也可能是一生只得一次機會呀! 原來,我竟然可以“UTMB One More Chance” (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2023/10/euro-utmb-egypt-2023-utmb-2023-ultra.html ),是個非常幸運的幸運兒,當下只能一再感謝感恩!

 

Rickie @ 3-days Quilotoa Loop Hike (Reverse) (3天基洛托阿環線(逆走)健行之旅), Cotopaxi Province, Ecuador (厄瓜多爾) < Ecuador OSO Trip 2026 - HOPE > (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2026/08/ecuador-oso-2026-5backpackinghope.html)

Rickie x Adishi Glacier (阿迪希冰川), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 3, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)  <LUT & Caucasus Trip 2025 – Moving On> - 大迫力Adishi Glacier (阿迪希冰川)確是一絕、難忘!

 

我認為,整體而言,Ecuador要比Georgia (格魯吉亞) + Azerbaijan (阿塞拜疆)美豔豐富許多,但Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 3所欣賞並感受到的大迫力Adishi Glacier (阿迪希冰川)仍屬一絕、難忘! 回說,承接前BlogDay 3Mestia to Ushguli Trek雖是long day但風光絕壯! 感謝天主及聖母的同行與保守,行程前半部份上攀最高點Chkhutnieri Pass (2,720m)時大部份時間天氣良好視野極佳,待我漫拍完畢開始下降較低點的Iprari時才狂風大雨一輪! 感恩,狂雨在下降半山途中已漸停! 我以8hrs 19 mins的時間完成Day 3到達Ucha Guesthouse,當中包括了頗長在Chkhutnieri Pass的漫拍時間 好彩單挑無跟團完全自由自在,否則後悔

 

Ucha Guesthouse, Iprari, Mestia to Ushguli Trek Days 3 & 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

不計起點Mestia (梅斯蒂亞)榻的Hotel Shgedi (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2025/12/lut-caucasus-2025-hk-actions.html )Ucha Guesthouse4天健行之旅中環境最好的guesthouse,只是要shared bathroom有點不便吧! That said,其實真正山屋絕大部份要shared bathroom也未必有“hot shower” (https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2013/12/south-japan-alps-part-5-rickie-kita.html / https://rickiekwong.blogspot.com/2012/02/taiwan-trip-2011.html )亦可能不建議hot shower!人在大山上,有個安全又溫暖的地方過夜,已經要感恩呀!

 

 

Breakfast @ Ucha Guesthouse, Iprari, Mestia to Ushguli Trek Days 3 & 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

Iprari, Way to Davberi, Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

Ucha Guesthousedinner time7pm,會與其他trekkers共食;由於食物不會添加,所以務必要準時,即使事實有機會是“dinner time遲大到,都要記緊要人等食物” – you can assumed that all trekkers would be very hungry !  So when the limited good food is gone, it’s gone “forever”()! 當晚我與一團來自德國的trekkers同枱晚餐,其實過去兩天前前後後也總會遇上,所以算是熟口熟面 席間大家有傾有講,氣氛非常有善!

 

Way to Davberi, Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

Rickie @ Davberi, Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞) - 即使有GPS route,都極易會在小村Davberi迷路加找路正路”natural trail出村上山前會經過此Guesthouse

 

2025710日,終於來到Mestia to Ushguli TrekDay 4也是最後一天。 根據手腕上準確Suunto Vertical的記錄,全程約13.4km而攀升為684m,比local trekking agent TrekGeorgia提供的資料均要多! 從數據上而言,Day 4 應是簡單任務,而實情也是如此! 講起數據上的簡單任務,有時真的不能盡信! 我又想起剛完成<Ecuador OSO Trip 2026 - HOPE>之旅中的solo 3-day Quilotoa Loop Hike (Reverse) (3天基洛托阿環線(逆走)健行之旅) (“Quilotoa Loop Hike (Reverse) ”)從有限資訊與數據上而言本以為難度應屬Mestia to Ushguli Trek或相若的level,但結果是In All Those Travelling Years最具挑戰的健行之旅之一! 又從數據上而言,其Day 3 (final trekking day)又應屬簡單任務,不過親身經歷之後也未算簡單,都有要費力steep up”需要謹慎的relatively steep down路段 That said, Day 3無需要以pat pat座落去的technical steep down”吧! 所以,lesson learned,置身於陌生的海外登山之旅,即使是數據上的簡單任務,都要be well prepared,不論是裝備,補給或心態上! Ecuador Quilotoa Loop Hike,一定會開Blog與大家分享!

 

 

Rickie @ Way to Murkmeli & Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞) – 此段急登是Day 4最後難關”, so just take your time & enjoy


回說Mestia to Ushguli Trek,步出IprariUcha Guesthouse,先沿寬闊車路落山再接柏油車路,的確屬簡單任務 沿柏油車路前行一段,需沿右手邊出現的石橋過河登上山邊上的小村Davberi As usual,即使有GPS route,都極易會在小村裡迷路加找路,而正路”natural trail出村上山前應會經過一間Guesthouse,是稍息整裝出hiking poles的好地方! 然後,natural trail沿山坡會急登一段,又會經過一道兩邊均長滿茂盛翠綠野草與鮮豔野花草坡之地型,是Day 4最費力路段但也是拍攝反映實情的造型照之好地方,宜放慢腳步感受 這段急登頗長,但這是Day 4也是通向終點 歐洲最高長年有人居住村落Ushguli (烏樹故里/ 2,100m) – 最後難關”, so just take your time & enjoy

 

Rickie @ Way to Murkmeli & Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

沿山徑緩緩上登,右手邊草坡下會見到早前進山經過的小村Davberi,又會經過一處開寬小草原與指路牌,然後山徑會帶領trekkers通向樹林之中。 即使是同樣有GPS routes,但相比起路標貧乏又會不時出現隱藏分叉口Quilotoa Loop Hike (Reverse)Mestia to Ushguli Trek路線清晰簡單,只要有一定海外健行經驗與體能,單挑” without guide享受Mestia to Ushguli Trek的恬靜與自在絕對doable 山徑會在森林樹蔭下遊走好幾公里,景色欠奉但正好避開接近正午非常和暖的炎陽! That said,有太陽而非陰雨,絕對是健行與拍照所需的好元素呀! 這段路上,偶然也會遇上其他trekkers而且路況平坦明顯也無甚分叉路,所以即使置身茂密森林下也感安心!

 

Way to Murkmeli & Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

行行重行行,終於衝出森林小徑沿草坡緩緩落山,相比起Quilotoa Loop Hike (Reverse)大部份落山都有“steep down路段元素簡值就是天堂! 山徑末段會有小木橋過一條小急河又會經過一處木屋民居 放心! 無狗! (…) – 然後就會再次接上柏油車路,終點已近!

 

 

Final Push to Murkmeli & Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

接上柏油路口,理論上(與實際上)應該是一條路通向Ushguli,但GPS route有機會出現點點confusion – instead of 行車路,GPS route或會指引你沿右邊草坡上時有時無的山徑。 Well,不論景觀或路程等等,與柏油路分別不大,也就無謂執著吧! 反而,接近Ushguli時,應要留意柏油路上右手邊落村的路口,先會經過Murkmeli hamlet (小村落),然後又會重新接上柏油路時建議要再留意右手邊出現的分叉口沿小橋過河,於Ushguli西端的Chazhashi hamlet進入Ushguli 尤其是Chazhashi hamlet,會穿梭於有密集Svaneti Towers (斯瓦內蒂塔樓)歷史感重的小村路,又會拍得獨特古樸Ushguli的其中一個最佳角度,暫時忘卻背包的重量與4天健行的疲憊!

 

Murkmeli hamlet (小村落), Final push to Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

Chazhashi hamlet, Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 

Ushguli(烏樹故里/ 2,100m)是隱世小村,不過也分開西端的Chazhashi hamlet與東端的Chvibiani hamletguesthouses主要集中在Chvibiani Chazhashi不能錯過!  2025710 Georgia time 13 :49pm,我終於到達了終點UshguliTekla Guesthouse 雖然有點疲憊,但置身歐洲最高村與雪山幾百年老教堂與Svaneti Towers之勝景,心情興奮又帶著激動,Ushguli有攝人魅力的境地!

 

(待續;請留意不日upload<LUT & Caucasus 2025 – Georgia Mestia to Ushguli Trek (格魯吉亞梅斯蒂亞-烏樹故里健行之旅) Part 9 (最終回)  歐洲最高村Ushguli (烏樹故里)的攝人魅力 格魯吉亞最高峰Mt. Shkhara (什哈拉)下異教徒聖母教堂Lamaria Church (拉馬里亞教堂)前以不朽勝景圓滿旅程> @ [*])

 

Chazhashi hamlet, Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)

 Rickie @ Ushguli (烏樹故里), Mestia to Ushguli Trek Day 4, Svaneti (斯瓦內蒂), Georgia (格魯吉亞)